Digging into the Past: Unearthing Ancient Lives in Portugal’s Tagus River Valley
What It’s Like to Be an ÐÓ°ÉÂÛ̳ Volunteer Archaeologist
ÐÓ°ÉÂÛ̳ participant Ranee Duncan journeyed to the sun-drenched Tagus River Valley in central Portugal to take part in the expedition Discovering Ancient Societies in Portugal. There, she joined a team of archaeologists and fellow volunteers to uncover the secrets of an 8,000-year-old shell midden—an ancient site revealing the dramatic shift from nomadic hunting to settled farming societies. Ranee shares her reflections on the thrill of scientific discovery, the camaraderie of the team, and the profound connection she felt to the people of the past as she quite literally scraped away the layers of time.
Have you ever dreamed of being an archaeologist?
Imagination certainly can take off when we watch Indiana Jones or read of Howard Carter opening King Tut's tomb—but what about the real scientific experience of picking up a trowel and scraping the earth traveled and lived upon by centuries, no, millennia, of people before us?
I was one of those kids who loved reading, and I discovered early that history fascinated me when it tied real-life details into stories. And while the headlines of history often bring us to accounts of kings and queens, or wars and the related defenses or battlegrounds, I discovered early on that a ghost story tied to a hilltop view or an artifact discovered in a place I had been, drew me deeply, intellectually and emotionally, to the real histories of everyday people and actual places.
While my professional career was spent sorting out debits and credits in a world of cubicles and computers, I found a way to connect my dreams with reality when I joined my first ÐÓ°ÉÂÛ̳ archaeological dig in 2001. Since then, I have been on over a dozen expeditions, participating in diverse research activities with other curious volunteer scientists and inspiring researchers, exploring both natural and human history.
There's an excitement in scientific exploration when details and data lead to answers, and I find few things in life can beat that rush of realization that comes with the actual connection to real people in the past. And I know it's not just me—it's no accident that many of the ÐÓ°ÉÂÛ̳ volunteers I have met on archaeological expeditions return again and again to the same site—maybe it's that sense returning to peel back the layers of history to find out what happens next. Actually, no, it's discovering what happened before!—and before that…! Because archaeology works backward, and with each deeper excavation, we delve deeper into the truth of what really happened—tangible time travel…!
DISCOVERING ANCIENT SOCIETIES IN PORTUGAL
In 2023, I had the amazing opportunity to join other ÐÓ°ÉÂÛ̳ volunteers assisting archaeologists in Central Portugal as they excavated an ancient site that has been providing groundbreaking clues regarding an important lifestyle shift for the societies present in the region. And I say "Groundbreaking" truly meaning every sense of the word! Because this site in the lovely Tagus River Valley has helped archaeologists find a transition period in human history when hunter-gatherers lived side-by-side with farmer-herders—and ÐÓ°ÉÂÛ̳ volunteers continue to uncover more clues when they travel to this fascinating site each summer.
The researchers leading this expedition are experts not only in excavating and tying together the often-minute discoveries to help answer big-picture questions—but also are some of the most inspiring, thoughtful, and appreciative scientists I have ever encountered! We were welcomed at the Lisbon Airport by the friendly faces of two of the expert archaeologists, Dr. João Cascalheira (who would provide us with the project overview later that day) and Lino André (who would provide the site introduction and lead us in our daily digging activities after that day). Our 90-minute van ride to our home base in Muge was enjoyable, filled with tips regarding touring Lisbon and other parts of Portugal, answers to our immediate questions, and excitement over the previous team's findings.
Arrival in Muge gave us a sense of the agricultural history of the area and a bit of a sense of awe for our level of comfort in both the accommodations and schedule! This expedition has unique lodging in a private villa, the Palace of Muge Estate. This is a historic private residence on a wine estate known as Casa Cadaval. Our hostess, Teresa Schonbörn, countess of Schonbörn and Wiesentheid, has continued her family's commitment to preserving and supporting archaeology on her lands. ÐÓ°ÉÂÛ̳ volunteers have their own living quarters and kitchen on the palace's second floor and may have the pleasure of encountering the countess in the common areas of the palace, or if she brings visitors to tour the dig site, only a 10-minute drive from the house.
Our daily commutes were a breeze—the staff drove us to the nearby dig site each morning and then back to the palace early each afternoon. Volunteers assembled their breakfast and lunches, and then in the afternoon, we would walk just minutes through the estate to the "laboratory" building for afternoon lab work—this is performed in an open-air courtyard, shaded from the summer sun.
WHAT'S A SHELL-MIDDEN?
The dig site is one of a series of shell middens—an 8,000-year-old feature in the landscape. These mounds were once perceived as merely trash heaps—and while that offers a lot to learn from, rich in everyday history, it also is now understood to be a more complex multi-purpose feature—shell middens all over the globe are increasingly explored as intentional and important landmarks, that could have been community centers, and sometimes burial sites.
It became very apparent that the staff looked up to Dr. Célia Gonçalves for her caring leadership as well as her visionary reading of the dig and its surrounding landscape. We soon learned that volunteers, as well as staff, could depend on her for decisions as important as where to dig next, what tool to use and in which direction, or which dessert to choose from the luscious selection at the local restaurant (the Expedition Briefing has some helpful safety information, but didn't warn me sufficiently regarding the diversity and richness of Traditional Portuguese desserts!).
What did we find? Mostly lots of shells! Some animal bones…some of my teammates found charcoal, which was gathered and sent off for dating analysis. And think of it—it's 8,000 years old!!! The work was rewarding, with many finds, and the staff were always available and excited to share knowledge.
Evenings were spent in enjoyable conversation over wonderful food at local restaurants or in the palace courtyard, and much of the discussion for both volunteers and staff was about "When can we all gather and do this again?"
Ranee’s account captures the immersive volunteer experience, but the research itself reveals an even deeper story. This site in Central Portugal offers valuable insight into how early societies adapted to environmental change, including shifts in food availability driven by rising sea levels after the last Ice Age.
As ÐÓ°ÉÂÛ̳ volunteers help uncover these ancient histories, they contribute to a growing body of research exploring the long-term relationship between people and climate. This project not only brings the past to life—it also sheds light on how human societies have responded to environmental change for thousands of years, helping us better understand the challenges we face today.
Ready to Dig Into History?
Join the Discovering Ancient Societies in Portugal and experience the thrill of uncovering humanity’s past—one layer at a time.
Work side-by-side with expert archaeologists, connect with fellow volunteers, and help reveal stories buried for millennia.
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